THE MUCH SOUGHT FOR TRAM NUMBER 28 IS STILL THE MOST TYPICAL WAY TO START THE ‘RACE’ THAT, LATER BY FOOT FROM THE TOP OF S. JORGE CASTLE, WILL TAKE US FROM THE PATHS OF THE SÉ CATHEDRAL TO THE LABYRINTH OF ALFAMA AND FINALLY TO THE RIVER TEJO.
Nothing like the imposing walls of S. Jorge, with a 360 degrees viewpoint, to understand the real dimension of the city, the way the old presents itself and the new stands up to lead the city into the future. Among little squares and quaint streets one descends to Largo de Santa Cruz, where the Ricardo Espírito Santo Foundation engages in the art of restoring the old to its former glory and the breathtaking view makes us think that the houses of Alfama are racing to see which one will reach the water first.
Without tram 28 it might be really tiring to go up to then come down. And one does not need leg pains to enjoy the effect on the senses of the clothes drying on windows facing the sun, cobble stone paths celebrating this traditional trade, and the solemn Sé Cathedral, for centuries devoid of embellishments, for when it comes to praying the devout need no distraction.
Along the way there are ‘tascas’, small taverns where one can have a snack and drink a small glass of wine or a beer, here and there Fado clubs slowly start preparing for more amazing nights, and there are restaurants and commerce for every taste and purse. But what this borough has plenty of is… life. People talk aloud on the street or from one window to another, there is song and dance during popular festivities, when people celebrate their favorite saint with sardines and parades, and the houses seem to watch over the visitors’ journey down to the river. Finally, at Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, the wonderful Fado Museum makes for the soundtrack. It is a good place to restart the walk, if you have the time and the legs. A journey of the soul, for without it there is no Lisbon.
VISIT
EAT
SLEEP
