CASTELO, SÉ AND ALFAMA

THE MUCH SOUGHT FOR TRAM NUMBER 28 IS STILL THE MOST TYPICAL WAY TO START THE ‘RACE’ THAT, LATER BY FOOT FROM THE TOP OF S. JORGE CASTLE, WILL TAKE US FROM THE PATHS OF THE SÉ CATHEDRAL TO THE LABYRINTH OF ALFAMA AND FINALLY TO THE RIVER TEJO.

Nothing like the imposing walls of S. Jorge, with a 360 degrees viewpoint, to understand the real dimension of the city, the way the old presents itself and the new stands up to lead the city into the future. Among little squares and quaint streets one descends to Largo de Santa Cruz, where the Ricardo Espírito Santo Foundation engages in the art of restoring the old to its former glory and the breathtaking view makes us think that the houses of Alfama are racing to see which one will reach the water first.

Without tram 28 it might be really tiring to go up to then come down. And one does not need leg pains to enjoy the effect on the senses of the clothes drying on windows facing the sun, cobble stone paths celebrating this traditional trade, and the solemn Sé Cathedral, for centuries devoid of embellishments, for when it comes to praying the devout need no distraction.

Along the way there are ‘tascas’, small taverns where one can have a snack and drink a small glass of wine or a beer, here and there Fado clubs slowly start preparing for more amazing nights, and there are restaurants and commerce for every taste and purse. But what this borough has plenty of is… life. People talk aloud on the street or from one window to another, there is song and dance during popular festivities, when people celebrate their favorite saint with sardines and parades, and the houses seem to watch over the visitors’ journey down to the river. Finally, at Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, the wonderful Fado Museum makes for the soundtrack. It is a good place to restart the walk, if you have the time and the legs. A journey of the soul, for without it there is no Lisbon.

VISIT

In full power on top of one of Lisbon highest hills, the castle conquered from the Moors i... READ MORE
The Patriarchal Cathedral of St. Mary Major or simply Lisbon Cathedral is a Roman Catholic... READ MORE
In Alfama, the Fado Museum lets you discover the history of this unique musical genre, a... READ MORE

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EAT

The “Fábrica de Santiago” restaurant is a fusion of Traditional and Modern Portugue... READ MORE
Opened in 1973, throughout more than 40 years of existence, Farol de Santa Luzia has ... READ MORE
In the Castelo borough there is an excellent spot to toast the city. Created by Chef Vito... READ MORE

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SLEEP

Within the walls of São Jorge Castle stands the noble Solar do Castelo, with two floors and an attic. It is also known as the kitchen's mansion as it is constructed where the old kitchen of Alcáçova Palace once stood. This 18th century palace, which is classified as an historic building, has seve... READ MORE
About to become part of Lisbon’s archaeological heritage, this ‘Palácio dos Castros’ of the 15th century has got a new life and became home to Santiago de Alfama. Appointed as the Best Urban Hotel in 2019 and 2021 and the Best Breakfast in 2023 in the Excellence Awards of Condé Nast Joha... READ MORE

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